OWW Blog

From licensed healthcare providers who are experts in their field

Shoulder Instability in Rock Climbers

Jun 14, 2023

Written By: Zoe Caliendo

 

What is shoulder instability?

 Shoulder instability is from not enough support to keep the “ball joint” (humeral head) in the socket (Glenoid fossa). This can be caused by muscle imbalances/ weakness, laxity in passive structures (ligaments and capsule), or insufficient labrum.

There are different degrees of instability. If your shoulder partially goes out of the socket and back in it’s called a subluxation. If it fully goes out of the socket it’s called a dislocation. Sometimes you can get your shoulder back in by yourself and sometimes you need to get help from a medical provider.

Multiple dislocations can lead to chronic instability and may require surgical interventions.

 

Things that you might feel that would be signs of shoulder instability

Feeling pain in your shoulder in addition to feeling your shoulder is ‘loose’ or ‘slipping in and out of the joint’. Having a constant ache in your shoulder and/or difficulty sleeping can also be signs of should instability.

We commonly see shoulder instability in climbers because of the high physical demand required on the shoulder. This can lead to muscle imbalances due to strong pulling muscles and weak pushing muscles.

 

What to do about it.

1) Talk to your physical therapist. They will determine where you have your instability, degree of instability and discover any muscle imbalances.

2) Complete a shoulder stability program to work on building your shoulders in ways other than climbing working different muscle groups.

 

Your physical therapist will provide you a program that is specific to YOU and your style of climbing to help work towards your goals with less pain and more confidence.

 

Here are a couple exercises that are commonly prescribed with shoulder instability. Depending on where your shoulder instability is, current fitness level and strength these exercises might need to be modified for you.

 

1.              Shoulder internal and external rotation

2.              Shoulder taps

3.              90/90 step outs

 

Want to learn more?

 

Schedule an appointment with Dr. Zoe Caliendo, Physical Therapist and avid rock climber to learn more about your shoulder and get back to the things you love most.

 

Click here below to schedule your free 15-minute consultation.

 

 

Disclaimer: The information provided is general information and may not apply directly towards your own injuries. This webinar is not meant for diagnosis of your injury and you may need individual care for a plan of care that will work for you.

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